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Oxford: dreaming spires, amongst other things

Radcliffe Camera
Radcliffe Camera
Sunday, 13th January 2008
Oxford: city of dreaming spires and ancient learning. Not the ideal place for a student weekend break you might think. But as we all know you should never judge a book by its cover and you’d do well to read a little further into what this charming and vibrant destination has to offer.

Getting There

Virgin trains run direct from York to Oxford and take about three and a half hours; just long enough to get into a good book or read the paper cover to cover. Otherwise the drive is almost exactly 200 miles which (according to the AA) should take just under four hours. As with many city train stations Oxford’s is on the edge of the city and is about a 10 minute walk from the centre.

Daytime

Now clearly most of the daytime activities on offer in Oxford are of an intellectual persuasion. If you’re not a fan of old things it’s probably not the destination for you. For those of you who enjoy a good museum and some architecture though it couldn’t be better.

My favourite museum is the wonderfully eccentric Pitt Rivers museum which consists of one man’s personal collection of curios and ethnic artefacts gathered from around the world. Entry is free and I promise you that you’ve never seen quite so much weird stuff crammed into one enormous room.

If you’re of a more literary persuasion then Oxford welcomes you with open arms. The Bodleian Library is second in size only to the British Library, and although public access to the majority of the reading rooms is not permitted they do run audio and guided tours. There’s also an exhibition space which is currently hosting a celebration of Milton’s 400th birthday. What’s more if you’re inspired by the Bodleian then directly opposite is an amazing branch of Blackwells which also hosts literary themed tours of the city.

Food and Drink

You’re going to be a bit peckish after soaking up all that culture and absolutely the best place to refuel of a lunchtime is Pie Minister. Aside from its wonderful name they serve the best pies on blue rimmed retro plates from a cosy café in the heart of the Covered Market.

For a quick pit stop on the sight seeing trail search out The Turf: A quintessentially Oxford pub nestled between a square of curious houses it’s a bit of an effort to find but once there you’ll be rewarded with mulled wine and braziers on which to roast chestnuts and marshmallows. It’s two minutes from the Bodleian, just ask a friendly looking local.

Kazbar
Kazbar

In the evening, for a leisurely dinner experience head to the Kazbar just out of the centre of the city on the more bohemian Cowley Road. Kazbar’s Moroccan theme, sumptuous tapas menu and brandy enhanced sangria make it the perfect place to settle in for a four hour dinner.

Inside Knowledge

If you’re beginning to find all this culture a little exhausting then it might be time to try Oxford’s alternative offerings. If you’re visiting on a pleasant summer weekend then what’s more charming than spending an afternoon messing about in boats? You can hire a punt from under Magdelene Bridge next to the botanic gardens and circumnavigate the college cricket ground.

Though when in Rome … do remember that in Oxford they punt standing on the Oxford end (the sloping bit) rather than the Cambridge end (the one with the platform). Talking of the botanic gardens, any die hard Phillip Pullman fans might want to head there with the Amber Spyglass in hand to track down Will and Lyra’s bench.

For alternative evening entertainment it’s always worth checking out what the Creation Theatre Company are up to for an amazing night of theatre, magic and spectacle, especially in the summer when they put on awe inspiring outdoor performances.

Otherwise, if you fancy a pilgrimage to the set of the video for Creep (Radiohead) or the place where the strange ones go (Supergrass) the newly refurbished Carling Academy Oxford plays host to some interesting bands and has club nights most nights of the week.

No one’s pretending that you’re going to have the wildest holiday of your life in Oxford but if you fancy a relaxing getaway then a weekend is more than enough time for this charming city to work its magic and armed with a few insider’s tips you can avoid the crowds and see the real Oxford.

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