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The Italian dream: Lake Garda

Malcesine, Lake Garda
A stunning view of Lake Garda
Saturday, 13th March 2010
My initial glimpse of Lake Garda and its surrounding vista caused me to make a snap judgement: this has to be one of the most romantic locations in Europe. It seemed ironic then that this was a family holiday in which I spent the entire trip admiring the stunning sunsets and moonlight alongside my lovely parents.

A holiday by Lake Garda is however extremely versatile in that you can make the experience whatever you want. I was there in August, which is obviously a popular time for many families. However, it remains an extremely popular location for young lovers and old couples alike who counteract the abundance of family folk. Granted, Garda is not the first port of call for students travelling on a stringent budget, nevertheless it should still be one of the places that you visit in your lifetime. The Italian lakes manage to combine an elegant beauty with both culture and excitement.

  • The region

Lake Garda is the largest lake in Italy and it is located in the Veneto region of northern Italy. The region, once part of Austria, is home to mountain ranges including the incredible Monte Baldo which leers behind the lake-sidetown of Malcesine. The region is also in wine country and is home to vinos such as Lugana, produced south of the lake and the more common Bardolino of which a town on the lake takes its name. We got through many a pleasant evening sipping Bardolino Rose on our hotel veranda I can tell you. Lake Garda is also conveniently placed between Milan and Venice, with Verona about an hour away south-east of the Lake. This way you have the tranquil waters of Lake Garda for ultimate relaxation and some seriously stylish Italian cities within a days reach.

  • What to do?

Lake Tours

Each town on the lake is unique. Although, they share similarities in that there is an distinct lack of modern architecture; it’s like the towns have been frozen in time. We stayed in the north-east town of Malcesine, which has its own medieval castle that cuts into the coastline. From this town, it is extremely easy to reach other popular resorts such as Limone, Riva and Torbole by taking the passenger ferry to and from each port of call.

Take one of the coach/boat tours which cover the entire circumference of the lake, commencing at the north and stopping off in towns such as Bardolino, Lazise, which has a medieval fortress like York, and Sirimione. Sirmione is the southernmost town of Lake Garda which sticks out on a peninsula, renowned as a glamorous haunt for celebrities and high society, with its stunning man-made beaches and warmer waters. From here we took the ferry across to the eastern town of Salò. The east side of the lake is much flatter, greener and quieter à la Lake Como some might say. I strongly recommend a lake tour as it is a fantastic way to see a variety of lake towns in just one day. However, you are restricted in the amount of time you have at each stop.

Day trips to Verona/Venice

During a stay on Lake Garda it would be criminal not to take a day to visit one of the Italian cultural centres. Depending on whether you stay on the east or west coast will no doubt have an impact on your choice. We stayed on the east side meaning Venice was the obvious choice for us. The journey was excellent, particularly the obligatory boat ride into Venice itself, arriving just next to the Bridge of Sighs. Considering we were only in Venice for a day, we managed to see and do plenty including a ride on the water tube, or Vaperetto up to the Rialto Bridge. We also got to see Venice by night, which was much quieter and incredibly romantic.

Alternatively, head to Verona for a day, home of opera and the third largest ancient Roman amphitheatre in Italy. If you thought this region of Italy wasn’t romantic enough, think again. Verona was the setting of the iconic Romeo and Juliet. Tourists can visit the historic balcony linked to the two lovers and touch a statue of Juliet under the balcony for good luck. Moreover, in August the city belts out its annual opera season with performances held throughout the city and region.

Paragliding and Skiing on Monte Baldo

For adventurists, the mountains surrounding Lake Garda should be the first point of call. During winter, the imposing Monte Baldo is snow covered and functions as a ski village, allowing visitors to take to the steep slopes. Throughout the year you can take a thrilling cable car ride to the top of the mountain and spend a day walking on the ridges and winding paths. Just don’t miss the last cable car back down to Malcesine. When I was there it was good paragliding weather, or so they said. Plenty of enthusiasts delight in jumping off the highest point and gently floating down to the designated landing pad beside the lake. I can’t understand how they manage to land with such precision and avoid the lake!

  • Where to stay?

Most of the hotels on Garda are small family run joints. Don’t expect to stumble into a Hilton because they are just not there. Some accommodation is substandard and is in desperate need of a lick of paint. Yet the majority (including ours thankfully!) are clean, friendly and quaint. Our hotel was set back from the lake, nestled in the mountains with easy access to the town and the lake front. Note that most of these hotels are based on a half-board deal, in which you get breakfast in the morning and a three course dinner at night. Fortunately for us, the ‘Nona’ of the hotel cooked all of the meals which were all rustic traditional Italian dishes. I couldn’t get enough. Alternatively, there are plenty of economical and fully-functioning camp sites located around the lake for those wanting to experience a more ‘natural’ Garda.

  • The bottom line

Lake Garda is an idyllic place to spend a holiday. If you like breathtaking scenery, mountains, water activities, beaches and medieval towns, then you will fall spectacularly in love with this incredible expanse.

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