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Layering up for winter

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Tuesday, 1st December 2009
Written by William Booth

There are those lucky few women who always manage to look immaculately dressed, despite driving rain and howling winds. They have perfectly judged their outfits, right down to the belted trench coat slung over the flawlessly fitted suit with the oh so ladylike lace blouse hinting at its presence beneath the sleeve.

  • Who are they?

These are women who truly comprehend the absolute power that comes from always looking effortlessly elegant. These are women who never spend their day regretting their choice of a heavy knit that morning, or resemble intrepid Arctic explorers. To be short, these are women who have mastered the art of ‘layering’.

  • Why learn to layer?

It is one of those talents the well dressed have in spades; but it is also a skill that can be acquired and nurtured. Learning to layer is the key to appearing utterly chic, regardless of travel, weather and deadlines. It is also the key to creating a working wardrobe that is versatile, has mileage and perhaps, most significantly right now, makes the most of your investment pieces.

  • First things first

Avoiding ‘bulkiness’ is the challenge with layering: It all begins with your choice of coat. Depending on what you are wearing you need a coat that, at the very least, is cut to allow for a suit, a wide skirt or a pencil skirt to be worn underneath. Leaving the coat undone is key, and it allows for the details in the outfit to shine through. Lift matte fabrics with patent belts, add contrasting texture by combining tweed and silk or show off a pretty lace sleeve with a coat that ends at the elbows. Inevitably, this means that just ‘the one’ coat will not fulfil all your sartorial needs this winter, but it doesn’t mean tying oneself religiously to the latest overpriced trends. Inexpensive but well tailored coats will result in a wardrobe of greater interest and longevity and are the perfect charity shop quest.

  • Next consider

There are two things to bear in mind when layering; the balance of the overall proportion and the detail. Think carefully about which pieces to combine – this seasons exaggerated shouldered and sculptural jackets will not work under a coat, no matter how loose the cut, but these in turn can be ‘outer layer’ to a more compact and visually striking outfit. A wide skirt needs a long ‘swing style’ (like this) that reflects its shape, and likewise a pencil skirt works best with a longer, straighter lined coat. Echo a ‘full’ skirt’s playfulness by choosing a coat that ‘kicks’ out, and emphasise the waist by tightly tying the belt of a trench at the back. Alternatively with the coat open, take a patent waist belt and fasten over, leaving a strip of contrasting colour and texture running up the torso – the waist, offset by the full skirt, will look tiny and the figure will be elongated by the vertical line of differing material.

  • Add some colour

Such details may seem insignificant or obvious, but if perfected, are the secret weapons to stylish dressing. Make sure the length of your jacket doesn’t disrupt the line of your outfit, and that your shoe sits in a flattering position on your ankle. Try pushing up your jacket sleeve to show a hint of chiffon blouse at your wrist, or layering necklaces and long line scarves to change your proportions, adding texture and visual interest. Fine knit cardigans add warmth and will stand out against heavy tweed or can be used as a dash of colour in an otherwise monochrome ensemble.

  • Then some texture

This said, using similar, tonal colour palettes is important and will save giving others a headache when looking at you. Single colour variations in two or three shades are universally flattering and will work together to give you a more pulled together look. Most importantly, it does not mean an impossibly huge wardrobe either; it allows you more versatility with the clothes you already own. Play with textures and varying shades of colour - put the ubiquitous tuxedo jacket with a pair of fine tweed cigarette style trousers, a tightly fitting waistcoat and a lacy Victoriana style shirt and you have literally created ‘layers’ of interest. Swap the waistcoat and shirt for a loose fitting sheer blouse, pile on long necklaces and you still have an outfit teeming with texture and depth.

  • Consider your natural silhouette

It is important to be honest about your shape – when it comes to curves, layering is still possible, just make sure that you don’t choose clothes that cut your body in half. Proportionally, longer layers will look better, still add the waist belt but try to guard against block colours on top and bottom. My final note is in praise of high heels – they are your natural weapon of elongation for the silhouette, no matter height or shape, and kept dark and fiercely high will make you fabulous.

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