23rd January
latest news: Anna's sweet and sticky pork buns

Latest Features

christmas

Advent Calendar Day 25

Sunday, 25th December 2011

Aimee Howarth brings you an interview with The Yorker directors on the final day of the advent articles

christmas

The Advent Calendar Day 17

Saturday, 17th December 2011

Aimee Howarth speaks to YUSU's sabbatical officers about their Christmas Day routine for day 17 of the advent calendar

arthur chrsitmas

The Week in Film

Friday, 9th December 2011

For the final time this term, Vicky Morris updates you on this weeks film news

roald dahl

A Roalding Legacy.

Monday, 19th September 2011

50 years after the publication of 'James and the Giant Peach', the works of Roald Dahl continue to celebrate success.

More Features

Carnival
Beer
Votereformprotest
Facebook News Feed
Reel Cinema
Yorkshire Rose
Aaron Porter
roses
Treo

Class, Culture and Jack Wills

Jack Wills Shop
Tuesday, 10th February 2009
With university campuses across the country being besieged by a ‘Jack Wills Army’, at what point does a popular fashion brand become a uniform of conformity and class?

Aimed specifically at middle-class and upper-middle class students, Jack Wills has become synonymous with student life: even if you are not wearing it, the chances are you have a strong opinion about it. Being self-proclaimed ‘University Outletters’ and ‘Outfitters to the Gentry’ has led to many heated discussions about the questionably elitist branding and pricing of JW products.

Established in Salcombe, Devon in 1999, Jack Wills embodies a public school style, harking back to the ideals and inspiration of vintage British heritage, becoming a student specific British institution in only 10 short years. However, its specific target audience has meant that JW has become far more than a fashion brand. To be emblazoned with the JW logo has also become a visible and prominent class branding within the student community.

The stereotypical JW patron can normally be identified by back-combed hair, low slung track pants, sports stash, a gilet, the ever important pashmina and either Ugg boots or flip-flops (which both seem to be interchangeable between the summer and winter months). This basic uniform has created a self-conceited anti-fashion statement. The effort required to achieve JW’s signature nonchalant attitude has taken leisure wear to new class heights, steering firmly clear of the adidas-wearing, working class stereotype and creating a caricature ‘Rah’ to rival the ‘Chav’.

The extent to which these caricatures exist on a campus like York is variable and sporadic, and yet a short train journey up to the architecturally similar, yet much smaller Durham produces quite a different result. A popular destination for Oxbridge rejects, Durham epitomized the invasion of the Jack Wills Army. A short walk by the cathedral will reveal a clear uniform amongst both males and females, with the public school ethos of several Durham colleges providing the perfect breeding ground for this JW phenomenon.

As well as just providing a uniform, however, Jack Wills has cashed in on its unique and highly successful branding to create a complete enterprise, asking once again at what point do your retail purchases reflect a conscious lifestyle choice? The Jack Wills website is a perfectly executed example of the brand’s influence over all aspects of life. As well as purchasing a JW jumper for £69, why not borrow a selection of classic books from the JW library? You could even support the JW unsigned bands, or if you want to stretch that student budget a little further invest in a skiing holiday where JW Ambassadors can make sure you party with the ‘best people’. Why not attend a JW party, or buy tickets to the JW Varsity Polo Competition and watch Eton and Harrow, Oxford and Cambridge battle it out?

Despite this amazingly successful and well executed branding, how many university students in this day and age are polo-playing, classics-reading, après-ski socialites? And if a student is dressed head to toe in their favourite Jack Wills items, does this mean they strive to adopt the lifestyle? The answer to this question is obviously highly dependent on individual differences and yet a brand of such social standing which has an online message-board so you can ‘enrich your life with the wisdom of fellow Willites’ unavoidably becomes extremely exclusive rather than inclusive, shrouding the brand in perceptions of snobbery and pretence.

Therefore, despite its expense, Jack Wills’ diverse marketing strategies and signature vintage concept has become part of university culture, embodying a uniform and a lifestyle for the student ‘gentry’. Yet regardless of who wears Jack Wills or what background they come from, the brand itself openly trades on the back of its perceptions of wealth, stature and upper-class superiority. The question therefore remains, when you buy Jack Wills clothing, are you simply buying a fashion item or are you investing in a class-specific lifestyle?

Check out The Yorker's Twitter account for all the latest news Go to The Yorker's Fan Page on Facebook
Showing 1 - 20 of 27 comments
#1 Anonymous
Tue, 10th Feb 2009 2:17pm

the concept of the 'rah' amuses me greatly- they are simply chavs with daddys credit card! Jack Wills clothing is horribly overpriced and tacky, and does certainly give the wearer an 'I went to a posh school and have fuck load of money' label.
The owners of clothes like this don't stand out from the crowd- they blend in. If they have so much money why don't they buy clothes that are actually nice?! instead of walking around campus in a pair of flip flops and oversized sweatpants.
The people that look good on campus are the individuals who have bothered to trawl around York and find some of the amazing charity and vintage shops knocking about.
If I wanted to spend £20 on something stupid like jack wills knickers I'd clearly have to have a lot more money than sense.

#2 Anonymous
Tue, 10th Feb 2009 2:37pm

i agree
jack wills = twat

#3 Tom Jackson
Tue, 10th Feb 2009 2:45pm

totally agree with #1 and #2. 'outfitters of the gentry', bollocks

#4 Anonymous
Tue, 10th Feb 2009 5:58pm

Narrow-minded, old school class warriors = twats.

#5 Anonymous
Tue, 10th Feb 2009 5:58pm

...that was to post 1,2 and 3 by the way.

#6 Anonymous
Tue, 10th Feb 2009 6:46pm

Guessing post 4/5 is a Jack Willis wearing, fox-hunting.......

#7 Oliver Lester
Tue, 10th Feb 2009 7:08pm

Jack Wills is utter pooh.

#8 Anonymous
Tue, 10th Feb 2009 8:37pm
  • Tue, 10th Feb 2009 11:58pm - Edited by the author

Hmmmmm, I bought a pair of trousers from there the other day....for no reason other than everywhere I looked they were shit quality.

They were not too expensive, but I'm certainly not a 'rah' and think if you're so quick to sterotype people on what they wear then you cannot be offended when you get judged.

#9 Anonymous
Tue, 10th Feb 2009 11:29pm

I don't understand what everyone is upset about. If people want to buy clothes from an expensive shop, let them.

Stereotyping the customers is just the same as them claiming you're all jealous that you can't afford it.

Worst thing this article brings up is just how angry everybody is, at everybody. Just chill people.

#10 Anonymous
Wed, 11th Feb 2009 2:11pm

:Why do some people see class war in everything? Lighten up!

#1 not everyone suits vintage clothing. Thats why it's good we have a variety of independent and chain stores in town. Theres nothing wrong with 'fitting in' or following fashionable trends if you feel comfortable with it!

For addded variety and choice alone, JW is a welcome addition to our high street. Even if I can't afford anything in there!

#11 Anonymous
Wed, 11th Feb 2009 5:09pm

I agree. For example, jogging pants are so hard to find and poor quality elsewhere.

What's wrong with paying £30-40 of MY money for a pair of decent quality joggers that I will wear nearly everyday?! Certainly more comfortable than jeans.

It's not all about class.

Comment Deleted comment deleted by the author
#13 Anonymous
Wed, 11th Feb 2009 5:10pm

I wonder what Jason thinks about this?

#14 Dan Taylor
Wed, 11th Feb 2009 6:43pm

Don't encourage him, #13!

Yours, from a nice warm room, sitting at desk in JW jogging-bottoms, JW hoodie and Ralph Lauren Polo Shirt.

x

#15 Anonymous
Wed, 11th Feb 2009 7:59pm

And Primark undies?

#16 Dan Taylor
Wed, 11th Feb 2009 8:02pm

Buying JW means making concessions. The three items cost an awful lot. I'm underwearless, I'm afraid.

#17 Anonymous
Wed, 11th Feb 2009 8:18pm

I'm a class warrior socialist. But I only wear abercrombie.

#18 Anonymous
Thu, 26th Feb 2009 11:36pm

Lol to post #17. I love abercrombie and I wish I could afford more (took advantage of the $2 to each £1). I also love Jack Wills and again I wish I could afford it more easily. Their clothes are well made and are worn until there are ruddy great holes in them! This is actually more environmentally friendly than buying primark clothing that lasts 3 months! And might I just add...what on earth is wrong with those who deem themselves "rah" and dressing in that preceived style? Not all support shooting and hunting, but there's nothing wrong if you do either! I'd far rather be that side of things getting on with life than being some nuisance chav with 6 kids and living on benefits!

#19 Anonymous
Thu, 26th Feb 2009 11:45pm

Lol to post #18, you obviously don't understand the issues of class and stereotyping at hand here. Think about your comments please.

#20 Anonymous
Fri, 27th Feb 2009 2:38am

Anyone who thinks this isn't about class is either trying to be diplomatic or is very naive indeed. As if you didn't already realise the class connotations of wearing JW, just take a look at the website. It is littered with references to polo, rowing, 'rugger', skiing, and trips to Salcombe, to name but a few typically upper-middle-class pursuits. Not elitist at all, eh?

The majority of people I know who wear these ridiculously overpriced clothes would self-define as 'rah', and should really admit they only do it to achieve that 'shabby-chic, i've-just-got-out-of-bed' look.

I agree #1 with that everybody should feel it's okay to go out and buy the clothes that you want to wear and what suits you, rather than making a statement about how rich (substitute for foolish, if you like) you are because you own a Jack Wills hoody. Is it about the clothing? No way! If there was a Primark label on JW 'sweatpants' nobody would buy them. To sport an item of Jack Wills clothing is the same as saying 'I'm rich. Oh and a bit of a tw*t because I have to wear this hooded top to prove that'.

Jack Wills: clothes for sloanes.

Showing 1 - 20 of 27 comments

Add Comment

You must log in to submit a comment.