Beyond Oktoberfest: discovering Munich in winter

Whilst Oktoberfest may dominate the headlines, Christmas time is when the Bavarian charm really becomes evident. The famous German Christmas markets invade the city, with Christkindlmarkt dominating the Marienplatz, the main square of the city centre. Amidst a visual feast of neo-gothic buildings, the smells and sounds of old Germany certainly come to life.

Sample the Lebkuchen hearts and Glühwein as you trawl around the many stalls, selling crafts and gifts galore. For a special, if bizarre experience, try and visit this square when the Glockenspiel chimes (usually at 1pm and 5pm, but this varies).

Munich Skyline

Your ears may cringe at the off-key notes, while mechanical people and horses do a little dance way above you, but I, along with hundreds of tourists, seemed to find it enthralling enough to videotape. It’s an experience definitely not to be missed, if only to stare bemusedly at the crowds.

Culturally, Munich has so much to offer, even on a student budget. There are several excellent museums and galleries throughout the city, many of which are open free on Sundays.

For art lovers, there are three world class galleries: the old, new and modern Pinakotheks, set within walking distance of each other, and hosting paintings from artists as diverse as Kandinsky, Friedrich, Rubens and Warhol. On an island on the river Isar, the Deutsches Museum is the world’s largest museum of science and technology.

The only museum “dud” I came across was the seemingly exciting Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Museum), hosted in a wonderful old tower in the city centre. For €3, you can gaze in awe at demented-looking teddy bears and toy cars that could have easily come out of a Kinder Surprise, with poorly translated information cards declaring: “this bears were lovingly fondled with extra care”.

On those icy winter days, you can take some time out to visit the Suppenkuche (Soup Kitchen) at the Viktualienmarkt, perfect for a traditional taste of Germany. For those with a heartier appetite, head on down to the Spatenhaus to banish those winter blues with the “Bavarian plate”, loaded with pork, sausages, sauerkraut, and potato dumplings!

Oktoberfest

If you are looking for a unique drinking venue, one of my personal favourites was the Augustiner Keller, a beer cellar where Hitler gave speeches at the beginning of his political career. They do serve more than just beer, and it is more favoured by the locals than the notorious Hofbrauhaus, where you are unlikely to find a real German, or a free table.

As far as nightlife is concerned, Kultfabrik is the only place to be, claiming to be the largest party zone in Europe. A former factory, it now combines bars, clubs, skate parks, cinemas, games halls and flea markets for those looking for a “good time”, whatever that may be.

Located in the heart of Europe, Munich is perfect for cheap weekend getaways or even day trips. In a few hours you can be in the small town of Hohenschwangau, staring up at the wonder and madness that went into Schloss Neuschwanstein, the fairy tale castle on which Sleeping Beauty’s Disneyland castle was modelled.

Schloss Neuschwanstein

In the winter, snow glistens on the mountains and sunlight sparkles on the icy lakes below, giving the whole area a haunting atmosphere. If you have access to a car, a road trip down the world famous “Romantic Road” is a must. The Medieval villages set in the beautiful countryside of the Alps are sure to delight visitors of all ages.

Not as vast or intimidating as Berlin, Munich certainly has a charm of its own, which is particularly evident in winter. There really is something for everyone in this city that combines the traditional with the modern, the vibrant and the beautiful.

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